theres something to it.do it.

wake up.
today your pillow is off your head.
the blankets smooshed between your knees and chin.
toes chilled from the morning winds coming through your open window.
beaming sun filling your room, blinding your eyes.

there's birds out and singing loud,
the pup notices your waking movements and moves in for awakening kisses.
its perfect. calm.
unusual.

put the Irish breakfast in the hot water, hands wrapped around the mug feeling this heat
a little cream a lota sugar and soak the tea bag for 3 min.
perfect, just like how granny makes it.

hmmm. good morning.
this day is a good one.


some time passes.
again your toes are chilled by the sand grains, each step more cold then the last.
there's little caps making a rush for the shore.
the set begins.
one peak begins to rise. you're still standing there watching, waiting for the next one...
but your blood starts flowing.
no, not because your feet burn of chill.

2nd peak, growing... pacing it self then starts to curl left.
your teeth are clinched and you're bouncing.
as you begin to suit up, here it comes... wave 3.
nothing matters now.
you're stumbling into your suit jumping on one leg...
uhoh...
you eat shit.
but you're still fumbling for the other leg hole.
you got the hips sticking..."DAMNIT THATS A F*$%IN LEFT!"
arms in.... run....
shit... go back for your board....RUN!!!!

this is the best set of your life.
it's perfect. it's unusual.
but nothing is better then sitting in this lineup.

your toes are numb. the water's temperature :56 degrees F
sun beaming, warming your suit...
the sea is calm. waiting patiently for the next set.
uhoh...
you gotta pee.
bad.
thing is ...
there's people all around you...
your leg begins with the shake...
ahhhhh, relief.....
Wave time...

you see the bump.
your arms begin to pace over and out of the water.
long, deep strokes. you feel as if you're digging for treasure...
your pace picks up to catch wave 2.
it's perfect and you can feel it rushing from behind you.
you do one last deep push in the water...
you're here. you're on the wave...
it's perfect. you've got the walk to the nose of your board...

you've just caught the greatest wave of your life.
you go back to the lineup, and over a few hours the sun is getting too hot.
you've caught some perfect lefts for your day, two rights.
and one amazing barrel.
you're starving.
time to grub.

as hungry as you are, you step on to the sand and turn back to the waves for one last look.
this is it.
this is perfect.
this is how life is supposed to be.
there's something to waking up with the sun.
do it again tomorrow.